Rock: Sandstone unlike any you've seen or felt before. Dense, solid, bulleted sandstone....takes gear and holds gear. Also surprisingly friendly on the fingertips.

Climbing: The New is famous for a wide variety of climbing. Unlike some areas in the world that are all roofs, or all sharp face, or all sustained over hangs, the New have a bit of everything. Roofs, cracks, slabs, overhangs, jug hauls, technical face, you name it! It is at the New. Perhaps the best Single Pitch climbing area in the U.S..

Sport: Not many easy sport routes, better served improving lead skills in the gym. 5.10 will get you a couple of weekends entertainment before wishing you climb 5.11. From 5.10+ - 5.13 this place is awesome. A life time of rock!

Trad: Unbelivable classics in the 5.7 - 5.11 range. This place is notorious for the high number of mega classic 5.10's. Splitters, face, aretes....all on bomber sandstone. Bring 60M rope for most areas and a standard rack will surfice.

Bouldering: A nice circuit at the Bridge area, and some boulders at Beauty Mountain get attention. The real meat of bouldering at the new can be found at the nearby Hawks Nest Dam Area. Maybe a dozen classic problems with the typical contrivances.

Season: Fall and early Winter are clearly the prefered time to climb here. The weather is cool, dry and stable. During the Summer it is humid and rains and rains. Takes days to dry out certain areas and projects are out of the question.

Summer is great for gear and on-sights. Save projects for Fall and Early winter.

Locals: Locals are friendly, if you stay away from the "too cool for school Raft Guides". Many chill places to eat and waste away rest days without the town of Fayetteville feeling touristy. Crime is not a problem but there are many police cars who chronically bust out of towners speeding 5 mph over the limit! Drive slow near Fayetteville and Summersville.