Pilot Mountain
State Park, NC
The sky line of
Pliot Mountain

Photo Courtesy of John Pennington
Climbing is closed on the actual "knob" of Pilot Mountain, but south facing cliffs in the nearby woods offer a variety of climbs. I recommend parking in the far corner of the lower parking lot on the summit. In this area is the registration station and the trail head. The fastest "legal" way to the cliffs is via Three Bears Gully. It is not easy to spot from the trail, so pay attention to the map at the registration station if you don't have "The Climber's Guide to North Carolina" guidebook. This area is busy on weekends, particularly during the (college) school year, when many students drive in from the surrounding schools to climb.

Directions to park: From Winston-Salem take highway 52 (20 miles north) to exit for Pilot Mountain State Park. Follow the road up to park on top of the mountain.

Bouldering Walking down the 'yellow' marked trail, which leads to the approved gully for climbers, pass the gully and keep humping the easy hike till you come to a nice boulder on your right. The landing area is perfect, not even a need for a crash pad.

 
Camp-sites: The Park Service offers campsites with a grill, picnic table, and communal shower houses (hot water!) for $12 per night.
  
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Climbing: Sport, Top Rope, Traditional Hazards: Rock quality on lead & Loose rock on newer trails. At times there can be lots and lots of climbers.  
Access: Park - Open  
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