|
|
||
Valley
of the Moon, Ca.
|
|
Directions to park: Valley Of the Moon is located just outside the reaches of Interstate 8, approx. 72 miles east of San Diego, in a remote tract of land near the Mexican border.To get to the Valley Of The Moon, follow Interstate 8 East from San Diego or west coming from Yuma, AZ. Get off at In-Koh-Pah Rd. exit. If you are coming from San Diego, peel off the 8 and down the exit to the stop sign. Turn right at the stop sign and then take another immediate right at the next stop sign (appprox. 75 ft). Follow this road (the old Interstate 8 that parallels the existing highway) for 100 yards until a dirt road entrance is sighted on the left. From this point on ,it is recommended that the remaining length be travelled by 4X4 or a fairly sturdy vehicle with ample ground clearance. Once on this dirt road, it will turn back to the east and then begin to climb/traverse the ridge line to the south. Part of the road was once paved but has eroded or washed away over the years. The road tops out over the ridge line and continues south. Several 4X4 trails branch off the existing road. Ensure you take the trail that heads toward a block of rock domes directly to the south. The trail deadends at a "roadblock", formed by boulders, blocking further progress. Park here and walk past the boulders down the dirt road. The road will branch to the left, STAY TO THE RIGHT and stay on it for 1/4 mile until the trail branches again....this time, follow the road to the LEFT. One will begin to see the large number of walls and cliffs ahead. |
|
|
Camp-sites: Camping is free and you can camp about anywhere. However, the BLM manages this tract of land so use discretion when sackin' out in the area. Ensure you are pick a spot well clear of any Border Patrol truck |
|
|
Online-guidebooks: Help us add links to online guidebooks |
|
|
Cheap Healthy Eats: Not too much out here other than a Texaco station back up on the I-8, heading west (approx. 5 miles). There is a local resturant in Live Oak Springs (Hidden Pines Restaurant). Average chow, if you're desperate. The closest city is El Centro (approx. 25 miles east on the I-8) |
|
|
Important Links: |
|
| Climbing: Traditional, Bouldering, Sport - Hazards: Bring plenty of water when it is hot! Cactus, Rattlesnakes, Illegal aliens, Border Patrol Agents | |
|
Access: Park - Open - Best time to climb if Fall and Spring due to soring temperatures in the Summer. |
 |
 |
| | Climbing Supplements | Climbing Holds | Make Fake Rocks | Craigslist | The Right Footwear | Climbing Websites | The Right Footwear | Climbing Websites |
Commentary
Special thanks to: David
Daly
Some have made remarks that this area is reminicant of a "minature" Joshua Tree, bragging quartzite as the dominate stone to pull down. Yet, Valley of The Moon has a mystique all it's own. As the name describes, the area resembles an ancient lunar landscape and the spooky feeling some alien is watching your every movement (pardon the pun!). One can see that the walls and features of the area encircle the landscape like the rim of a lunar crater. Upon inspection of these features, the rock is characterized with wrinkles and pronounced patina as a result of exfoliation from sedimentary volcanic base layers. The exposed patina and platelets make it a choice proving ground for sport climbs; giving way to crimpy pumpfests and overhanging jug tugs. On average, V.O.T.M. has a large percentage of sport climbs to count for yet there are a number of traditional climbs that can offer the crack fiend a bagful of challenges. Climbs start around in the 5.7/5.8 range but the majority of the routes listed sit around in the 5.10/5.11 range. Most routes are bolt protected 80 foot sport climbs that end at two-bolt and/or chained belays. The area still holds a good deal of potential for new route activity. For more information on Valley Of The Moon, see the 'San Diego County Climbing Guide' by Dave Kennedy (recently published in 1999)The guidebook has a moderate listing of routes within this area. It cannot be emphisized enough ,as a reminder, that the Border Patrol monitors this area frequently. If approached by Border Patrol officials, ensure you state you business and be a great steward in the process. Don't be surprised to run into any illegals making a break for the U.S. Avoid all contact if possible. People make desperate efforts in desperate situations (ie guns, knives etc). Recommended routes of Valley Of The Moon: Verde Burrito (aka Funky Cold Patina) 5.9, Fried Tamale' 5.10b (name based on an illegal who "didn't quite make it"), Hasta La Bye-Bye 5.11a. Gear to bring: 60 meter rope and draws (maybe a few small pieces to 1"). Some achors, at the belay, may have cold shuts. As the standard goes, never place full trust in cold shuts. In most cases, cold shuts have been worn due to extensive use for top roping or lowering (such is the case in Owens River Gorge). Always clip to existing anchors as a measure of security. And when possible, rap off anchors to prevent further wear.
