Directions to park: Take Hwy 190 East out of Springville. Upon leaving Springville, take Balch Park Drive (Tulare J37) heading north. After traveling 3.5 miles, turn right onto county road M220. Travel it's length till you reach Mountain Home State Forest. Park at the Shake Camp Campgrounds (primitive campsites with water supply and pit toilets). The trailhead to the Maggie's Farm climbing area starts next to the horse corral. Most climbing parties head out to Redwood Crossing (a 2.3 mile hike) and bivy there (plenty of water nearby at Tule River). Take the Hidden Falls Trail 100 yards to the south through a grove of redwood trees then head uphill. Directly ahead are Darth Vader (on the right) and Tinkerbell (on the left) Domes, approximately 1/4 mile up a talus approach. Ensure you angle right and up through the talus gully to avoid thrashing through heavy manazanita and chapparal. There are several smaller slabs between both domes, commonly known as Never Neverland (known for it's loose, terraced character and composition). Both domes offer a great selection of steep slab climbing and desperate friction skills. Although Darth Vader Dome has seen some recent activity, there is still tons of potential for new routes. Most of the existing routes from earlier ascents are pretty runout. Be prepared to carry some extra gear and slings. Recommended routes on Darth Vader: Mr. Roboto (5.8), which follows the right facing corner in the middle of the dome. Also try 'Layah Your Hans On Me' (5.10a) that features a sketchy mantle onto a sloping dike. Don't miss out on 'Never Say Never Again' (5.9), a beautiful and elegant 200 foot finger crack up Tinkerbell Dome; a must-do! There is also a route done on the middle right side (approx. 50 yards left of a big Lodgepole) of Never Neverland consisting of (3) 1/4 inch bolts ending at the terrace above. As the norm goes, adopt a 'Leave No Trace' ethic and ensure you maintain an approachable attitude with the state park rangers. They will enforce the law when it comes to mechanized and/or motorized equipment in the backcountry, so use good judgment. The best time to climb at Maggie's Farm, seeing how it sits at an elevation of 10,000 feet, is defiantly SUMMER!

Camp-sites:

• Shake Camp Campground is $10.00 a night.
• Redwood Crossing for a way better experience and incredibly inspiring views.
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Online-guidebooks:

• Rock Fax
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Cheap Healthy Eats: Help us add eats

Important Links:

• ASAC
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Access: Park - Open

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