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Bald Mountain, CA
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Directions to park: If you're looking for climbing that offers challenging face climbs on high quality granite and also long for an enjoyable view then Bald Mountain is the medicine for your ailment. Bald Mountain features the same characteristics of that in the Domelands; spooky smears and dicey rounded edges. The best way to approach Bald Mountain (light duty truck or 4X4) is to take the 168 up to Shaver Lake (see directions to Courtright Reservoir in the climbing area listing). Go through Shaver Lake to the Tamarack Trailhead (Snow Play Area). Turn right onto the paved road and travel 2.9 miles from here. Then turn right onto a broken up paved road and drive 1.6 miles until one finds the sign identifying access road 9S02 and turn onto the dirt jeep trail. Travel another 1.4 miles that ends at a junction; head right here. Drive over a granite slab and uphill to the trail beyond. Continue following the trail for another mile till the summit of Bald Mountain is reached. Park here and desend broken slabs (3rd class) to the right. All routes begin 100 feet to the right of the desent slabs (as one faces toward the mountain). Most routes are 1 to 2 pitch bolted climbs with a few imperfections that afford protection (small TCU's and nuts). Also bring (2) 60 meter ropes (most belays end at 55 meters). Recommended routes: Night On Bald Mountain (.10a), Outrageous Fortune (.10c, 200 feet left of the long crack/cleft that splits Bald Mountain) and Champion Of None (.10d, just right of Night On Bald Mountain). One will also notice loads of potential on all the granite outcroppings surrounding Bald Mountains base (some as high as 70 feet!). Some routes have been done here but most have top rope anchors already in place. When seeking out new route potential, be respectful of first ascensionists by scouting out what is already in place (ie top rope anchors, "squeeze plays", gridding etc).

 

Camp-sites:

  • Camping is free within the Sierra Nat'l forest. If you're considering an evening campfire, obtain a Fire Permit with the local National Forest Ranger Station in Shaver Lake.
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Online-guidebooks: Help us add links to online guidebooks

 

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Important Links: Help us add Links  
Climbing: Bouldering, Sport - Hazards - Rough roads and ugly ground clearances for regular vehicles, hunters in October/November (mule deer season)  

Access: Park - Open

 
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